Monday, June 30, 2003

A little navel-gazing today... just warning ya -- could be boring...

Over the weekend I decided that I would take the summer off from school and gad about a bit. So Monday morning, I told my dad this, whereupon he called the school for me (I'd already paid for this term) and got my tuition transferred to next term in about 30 seconds flat. He's got a way with words, my dad.

In truth, I'd been wondering about whether to take this term off for some time, but it was on Saturday, when I was out and about with Soonji, that I finally made up my mind. I asked Soonji what she thought I should do (my penchant for asking other people to make up my mind for me hasn't changed -- wherever you go, there you are, you see), and she thought for a second before answering: "Well, if you had a plan to do something active each day, you know, as a replacement for school, and learn about Seoul or something, then I'd do it."

So I thought, "Okay! That's what I'll do."

But I have to tell you: I'm afwaid.

You see, I'm rather afraid of free time, as I don't know what to do with myself when I have it. If I'm not actively doing something (work, school, out with friends, at a museum, exercising), I get nervous. Free time? I should be doing something constructive, productive, or self-improving, dammit! So while I do do relaxing things such as taking walks, writing in my journal, and taking naps, I never feel like they were really worthwhile activities for an entire day.

Perversely, I'm really, really lazy, so even though I might feel restless, I can't quite get up the energy to go to a museum or whatever, and I end up on the couch (here, on the floor) rereading Harry Potter for the 500th time. Which would be fine in itself, except I feel like a lazy bastard when night rolls around.

I realize I've got a type A personality (funny enough, my blood type is A+), and my old shrink would say I shouldn't think of that as a negative, but sometimes you just wanna relax, you know? John tried earnestly to teach me the fine art of hanging out, but I'm afraid I didn't learn the lesson very well.

So this summer is a bit of a test. I'll only be working four hours a day; the rest of the day is mine. I can't give up all my type A ways, so I do plan on signing up for a class of some sort (taekwondo is at the top of the list), and I want to set aside an hour or two to review last term's lessons and try reading more Korean. I'm also going to switch my hours at work to morning, so that I can go to lunch with colleagues and practice speaking Korean (the skill I feel most deficient in). And I'm going to try to explore the city, which I haven't done at all.

Oh dear. Lots of goals already, for this supposedly relaxing summer vacation.

That's just it, you know. Wherever you go, there you are. Damn.

Pretty good weekend. Friday night, I stumbled home from work, shoveled some kimchee ramen (nectar of the gods. really) in my mouth, and, practically without swallowing, fell asleep. Not a spring chicken anymore. Cannot stay up all night partying without consequences.

Saturday I went through some classwork, organizing stuff, then felt I had to get out, and called a couple people. Janet was with her church group, which had just greeted a bunch of Poles who are Korean Studies majors and really, really excited to finally visit Korea. Eamon didn't answer; probably still in Ireland. Gyungli said she'd had a really bad fall on her new inline skates and besides, she had something to do.

Finally, my coworker Soonji said she was free, which turned out to be really great, because her job at the Foundation is taking foreign visitors around Korea and showing them the sights. So we wandered around Insadong, where she showed me some great artisan shops, including a shop selling the artwork of a young (and, I must admit, kinda cute) Buddhist monk (really great stuff), bought some ppondaegi (silk worm larvae) for me to try, and introduced me to a great tucked-away restaurant with wise-cracking old servers and rock-bottom prices. We sat in a park, wandered around the historic house district, and finally ended up at a very European-feeling gallery, where we sat outside and drank the best cafe au lait I have ever had, while listening to Nina Simone, admiring the photos of girls going to school in Afghanistan and talking about the universal difficulty of finding a good man.

Soonji told me that she had considered trying out Duo, the most high profile internet match site in Korea. It costs clost to 1 million won ($850 or so) for women (according to laws of supply and demand, the price is lower for men). For that price, you get about 10 matches. If none of those suit, you pay more money to get more matches.

She opted to vacation in Singapore instead.

On Sunday, I went with Masaru, the Japanese chef, to Dongdaemun, where towering buildings are filled with tiny stalls featuring cheap name brand ripoffs. Man, that's an adventure. First of all, the kill-or-be-killed pressure tactics are intense, to say the least -- all you hear are the cries of the sellers (mostly women ranging from their 20s to their 50s) exhorting you to "Buy it here! I'll sell it to you cheap! Everyone is wearing this! You can't find this anywhere else! It looks great on you! It's supposed to look that way! It's the latest thing! Yes, of course you can wear it to the office! I'll cut the price for you!"

Second, the clothes and styles are actually extremely similar, so it all starts to blur very quickly. Third, if you do want to try something on, there are no dressing rooms, so you either pull it on over your clothes, or step inside the stall and have the employee hold a cloth in front of you while you change.

I felt badly for Masaru, who patiently picked out stuff for me to look at and didn't mind that I rejected all of them. I finally bought a shirt and a skirt, and am fairly certain that I didn't get ripped off, though I really shoulda bargained with the first seller about the shirt I'm wearing -- I'm sure I could have talked her down a few thousand won.

Friday, June 27, 2003

Another night of drinking and talking til 5 am. God, life is fun.

Masaru, the Japanese chef in my class last term, hosted a party on the roof of his building, providing delicate finger sandwiches and lots of beer for us boozehounds. I hadn't really hung out with Masaru during the term, but I've always been intrigued by his career (French fusion food is his speciality) and his hobbies (scuba diving and photography). It was great to get a chance to talk with him. I think we said we were going to go clothes shopping on Sunday. But I'm not sure, because I was on the liquid road to trashedness.

At one point, I talked with Jose, a political science grad student who came to the U.S. from Cuba when he was 16. He complained that the party wasn't very lively, comparing it to parties with his friends, who apparently dance and are just a more active bunch. Well, yeah, it was just your average party with Russians, Japanese, Koreans, Kiwis, Canadians and Americans sitting around and drinking and talking, but -- wait, that actually sounds kinda interesting! Whatever, blase Jose.

Now that I think about it, Jose was a rather negative fellow (he also started complaining about Princeton when I asked him about it), but I pulled a Mia and said, "Wait. Isn't there something you LIKE about school?" He grudgingly allowed that the academics were pretty good. I also managed to wring out of him that he was enjoying Korea, whereupon the Canuck said, "You should be a therapist or something -- that's the most positive statement I've ever heard from this guy." Snort. Dude, if you can't look around and think, "Look at these people, here on this rooftop, in this city, at this moment -- what kind of crazy-ass confluences conspired to bring all of us here, together, tonight?" then I'm not sure I want to know you.

Around 3 or so, everyone had left or was sleeping, and there was just me, lip-pierced Japanese girl, Lewis, and Irina, one of the glamorous Russian twins from school. Irina talked for what seemed a long time about a speech contest she'd entered as part of school, and then about living in Vladivostok (I actually met someone from Vladivostok! trippy), and then it started to rain, and the party was officially over.

Lewis and I walked Irina home, then headed back to his house, where I slept over once again (and once again, chastely, for your enquiring, prurient minds). I actually slept pretty soundly from 5 am to 7 am, and then on and off til 10:30 am, which is when I bade farewell to Lewis (he's leaving tomorrow for the summer) and walked to the subway in torrential rain.

On the way home, I thought again how much Lewis and Mia have helped me crawl out of the Pit of Despair of the past several months, and how much I enjoyed talking with the beautiful array of people last night. A few weeks ago, I didn't feel like talking to anyone. I wasn't interested, I didn't care, and I just wanted to sleep, so I didn't have to be awake. This week alone, I've stayed up until dawn three times, and I didn't want to sleep when dawn arrived, either.

The rainy season has begun, and if I were the kind of person to make hokey cliched metaphors (oh wait, that's exactly the kind of person I am!), I'd say that the rains are starting to wash away the guilt and the sadness and the anxiety that marked the last months of my relationship with John. I think I might be starting to get happier.

Either that or I'm turning into an alcoholic.

[Confidential to the one who knows better, because EVERYONE KNOWS BETTER: You already know that you were an irresponsible, idiotic, unthinking and selfish DIPSHIT, so I'll just say thank god no one was hurt. Please, dude. Don't get dead. Don't get other people dead. You have way too much to do in this life to get sidetracked by death or murder. Love, hk]

Thursday, June 26, 2003

I saw the end part of Shiri last night on TV, one of the few Korean movies that have been released in the United States. It's about a North Korean spy, and despite a certain amateurish quality to the fight scenes and an over-reliance on melodramatic we're-both-pointing-our-guns-to-each-other's-heads-so-now-what moments, it was a compelling movie, stylishly pulling together elements of spy movies, political thrillers and action flicks.

It also contains real pathos at the end, when you realize that North and South used to be one, but have been and continue to be enemies for going on 50 years. Somehow, I never got that feeling in regard to East/West Germany, or the U.S. Civil War.

If you get a chance, do rent it.
---------------
People at work have been oohing and ahhing over my hair, and saying that I look younger, prettier, etc. The director of my team said I used to look like a student but now look very different. A bit later, he showed me a drawing that he'd received from some Vietnamese delegates who'd been at the office earlier, and asked me what I thought of it, which I'm not sure he would have done if I didn't look now much more like a Korean Korean girl.

Wednesday, June 25, 2003

I finally got to wash my hair today (Wednesday), and it felt sooooo good. Because all the scary chemicals needed time to sink into my hair, I couldn't wash it for two days (which really meant three days, because I didn't wash it before going to the salon) and I still can't tie my hair back for two more days (lest it leave a permanent crimp).

The (unpermed) Ringleted One tells me that $400 is the asking price for a straight perm in the States. So if any of you are thinking you want to wake up in the morning to perfectly blowdried hair, methinks that you should take that $400 and put it toward coming to Korea (in the off-season, you'd practically cover the entire ticket; also, because of SARS, travel to Asia is really cheap right now), where you can get your hair done for a tenth of the price.

I mentioned before that my hair looks very similar to that of a work colleague named Soo-yun, and today someone did say to me, "From the back, I thought you were someone else -- I thought you were Soo-yun!"

Okay, ENOUGH hair talk.

Two
Mia is going to Thailand tomorrow, where she'll be for 10 days before she comes back to Korea. And then leaves for Toronto, her home town, on July 14. I've spent a lot of time with her lately, and I think she's wonderful. She's sincere and silly and kind and funny and asks strange, probing questions and notices things like the wind moving in the trees. She's extraordinarily verbally emotional -- one of the first times we spent any time alone together, she told me that she'd written to a friend, "I've met two people here, and one of them is Helen, and I think they're both going to be important to me during my time here, and if they can be in my life for a long time, I'll be really happy." But she doesn't sound inappropriate when she says stuff like this. She sounds like she's opening her heart up.

I'm really going to miss Mia in the next 10 days, and even more so after she leaves. I hope we'll keep in touch. I plan to.

The other person I hope to keep in touch with is Lewis. Lewis and I aren't friends the way Mia and I are; he's more of a social butterfly, and our interactions have been much more superficial. But you know how some people can make you feel happy just be being around? Lewis puts people at ease immediately, and his cheerful, easygoing nature has the effect of brightening the day. We've been in the same class for six months, but have only recently started hanging out socially. Lewis hasn't "hand-picked" me the way Mia says she did; I'm one of many, many friends who are drawn to him. I'm not even one of his closer friends, I don't think. But I'm going to miss him nevertheless.

Lewis is leaving at the end of the week to spend the summer in England, helping to restore a 17th century house. He plans to come back in the fall, to complete the language program.

These two people both have a special gift of being able to make people happy; Lewis simply by virtue of being around, and Mia by virtue of reaching out and really trying to connect. In the last week or so, in great part due to the time I've spent with these two people, I have felt happier than I have in months. I feel so fortunate to have been able to spend time with them; they have made all my other interactions seem more joyful. They have made my life feel more joyful.

I'm still listening to Coldplay when I walk, and there's a line in "Green Eyes" that I heard tonight and thought, "Yeah."

I came here with a load
And it feels so much lighter
Now that I met you

Tuesday, June 24, 2003

Yesterday morning, Mia and I got a straight perms together, and my feelings toward my new hair went like this:

WOW!!! It's so STRAIGHT!!!
I look fabulous!
I look like a real, live Korean girl!
Hey. I look like someone I know... my work colleague Soo-yun has this exact same hair.
Huh. So does my teacher from 3rd level.
My face looks big. And draggy.
Wow, check out those dark circles under my eyes.
Hm. Maybe I don't like this as much as I thought. It's weird. My unruly waves -- gone! Wah!
[next morning]
Well, it's not SO bad. And it's still amazing.
Ah, just put some lipstick on and go with it.

The straight perm (sold here as "Magic Perm") originated in Japan and is wildly popular here. Someone told me that Jennifer Aniston's stick straight hair (on some season of Friends) was a product of a straight perm, which is quite costly in the States, apparently a couple hundred dollars. Here, in Edae (near Ewha Womans College), I was the recipient of 2.5 hours worth of work by at least 3 people for 60,000 won (USD $50.46). As a result, my hair looks like I spent an hour this morning blowdrying it, it has a glossy sheen, and it will keep looking like this for months. I can just wash my hair, leave the house, and it will dry into this amazingly perfect blow-dried shape, every strand in place.

I know, it's kind of scary.

My transformation into a Korean girl has started! AAAAAGGHHH! Now I will start wearing makeup, including glossy lipstick; wear high heeled slippers with pants with cuffs you can tie up around your shins; carry a small dog around; and adopt a surly look and whiny way of addressing guy friends.

Just kidding. But since I have this shiny hair that I have previously only associated with girls who actually did blow dry their hair in the morning, I kinda feel like I need to match it. So I've been wearing my contacts and putting on lipstick and considering losing weight. (The weight is not an indicator that I've suddenly lost my head; I've actually gained a few pounds in the last month and am feeling bloaty. Probably all the beer I've been downing lately. Plus, someone called me chubby last weekend. But to be totally honest, if you're a girl and have any body issues at all, Korea would be a hard place to live; ever since I escaped adolescence, I've never been unhappy with my appearance, but even I sometimes feel like a bedraggled duckling next to the tons of made-up, slender, swishy swan girls everywhere.)

I don't think it's all that bad to want to live up to my new hair; I've often looked at the Girls Who Blowdry Their Hair and wished I could look that pulled together. It's nice to feel pretty, as trite as that may sound. Also, I never cared much about my office appearance, but I have the feeling that it might be worth a little effort to look professional, and not quite so much like a college intern.

Mia didn't quite agree. She's also feeling ambivalent about her new hair, which is much longer than mine and is also stick straight, glossy, etc. She's athletic and is usually casually dressed, so last night, when I told her she should work the Just Stepped Out of a Salon look, she jokingly tossed her hair around and looked like a sports clothing model. Her natural hair is unruly and wavy, like mine, and she ranted last night, "My crazy unsmoothed, unglossy hair was ME! It showed who I was! Not like this hair! I feel like I look like everyone else now."

I think I might have felt like this when I was younger. But now that I have accepted the truth in the magazines and the billboards and the movies and the TV shows, I think it's perfectly fine to subject my hair to chemicals, spend an hour a day putting on "my face," shop ceaselessly for the latest fashions, pretend to be from Venus, and stay in the box. If it isn't me, it will be. Mwah hah hah!

Yeah yeah yeah. Bad joke, I know.

Monday, June 23, 2003

Well, as I suspected I would, I did slide down the Hill of Fatigue into the Pit of Despair ("don't even think about escaping... and no hope of being rescued, either") after I wrote yesterday's entry.

I went to see a long-running Korean musical called "Line 1" (originally German, great social commentary, most of which I didn't get and had to have explained to me), and in the middle of the second act, Rags, a drug-addicted prostitute, sings to the down-and-out heroine: "You're going to be happy, I know it, you've got the strength to be happy, I can see it in your face," and I really tried to hold 'em back, but two big ole tears came rolling down and plopped into my lap.

Partly I gotta blame the lack of sleep, which does to my sanity what an '80s metal band does to a 5-star hotel room. But in part, it's also because even when I don't consciously realize or acknowledge it, it's a lonely business, living in a new place. You have to keep trying, keep moving, keep meeting people, keep being social, keep getting out there.

I am trying to do that these days, both because I'm on the hunt for good friends, and because I do appreciate the amazing, beautiful diversity of people. But it gets tiring. It's easy to feel lonely.

So when I heard Rags sing in the second act, it was as if someone I loved had turned to me and said, "I know it's tough and I know you feel alone, but I promise you, hk, you're gonna feel better soon."

In college, Asher Ricelli once said that his favorite line out of any book he'd ever read was "Only connect." E.M. Forster, Howards End. I often think of that. I thought of it last night when, after the musical and dinner with Mia and her friends, I was walking with Mia in Daehangno, and wondering if it would be weird, loserly or stupid to tell her about some thoughts I'd been keeping to myself lately. It's so hard to make yourself vulnerable. But -- only connect.

So I talked.
---------------------------
I'm getting older, as we all are, and for the most part, I feel pretty fine about it. I'm certainly less judgemental than I was, say, five years ago, even though it's still fairly often that I run into a situation that makes me think I need to get over myself and loosen up. But I'm also increasingly less tolerant of rules and hierarchies that suppress dignity and make people feel bad.

Just now I came back from a snack run (the team has one every afternoon) with Myung-soo that lasted a long while because we were talking. We were told that another team director had been waiting to give me something to correct, and that she'd finally left because I was gone for 20 minutes.

I felt a little bad about not being here, but I thought about it, and I figure I could have been out for 20 minutes at a shot for any number of reasons, and for crying out loud, does it really matter? But what makes me mad is that the team's pugnacious know-it-all asked me, "You didn't just go to the little store, did you? You went somewhere else, right?"

"No," I replied, "We were just talking." (Which was not politic, I know, but I was rattled and couldn't think of a cover.)

"You were talking -- did you hear that, Miss Min [the assistant team director]? She said they were talking. And the team director was here waiting. Myung-soo, you shouldn't take Helen with you anymore when you get snacks."

I went to my desk to check if there were any new documents, and the loud-mouth said to come have a snack. "I feel badly that I wasn't here," I said. Loud-mouth said, "Oh, it's not your fault! You don't have anything to feel bad about!"

Of course, Myung-soo felt badly about this, and that makes me mad. Who the fuck cares if a fucking letter gets out today at 5 pm or tomorrow at 9 am? I would have finished whatever document she had for me by day's end. If the team director hadn't had a document to check just then, our long break would have gone unnoticed. I might have been puking in the bathroom, for all they knew -- in any case, the point is: Who the fuck cares?

In essence, what I really resent is the strict hierarchy that forces the lowest person on the ladder to just swallow their dignity and take abuse. I know this is present in some U.S. companies as well, but in Korea, it's omnipresent and stringent and just stinks.

Oh, and the matter that the team director wanted to consult me on was simply whether "As Your Excellency is well aware" was correct. NOT a reason to cause someone to feel bad. Fuckin' A, people, have some fucking perspective.

Sunday, June 22, 2003

Keep Moving: Revisited

Lewis (former sheep shearer from New Zealand), Yuki (the first person I met in Korea), and Ronnie (a Canadian whom I don't really know) had a party at their last night, as they are all leaving Korea (two permanently, one just for the summer). Thus, another night of drinking much weak beer while chattering (mostly in Korean) with Japanese, Chinese, American, Canadian, French, and New Zealand persons, followed by sleeping over in Lewis' room with Lewis and Antoine. Antoine is young (not yet 20, I think). Antoine is French. Antoine has B.O. Oh well.

For some reason, despite only having slept about 4 hours on Friday night, I was totally awake and unable to sleep at 3 am. So I WAS going to quietly read the New Yorker (thanks again, Dave and Steph!!!) downstairs so as not to disturb anyone. But a very drunk Lewis insisted I come up, since he'd feel like a bad host if I stayed downstairs. So instead of reading about how to fly the Goodyear blimp, I stayed up talking with a smellerific Frenchman and a Kiwi who slurrily slid in and out of consciousness.

Around 5 am, the room began to lighten as the sun prepared to start another Sunday. Lying on the floor, I smiled. There are things you just can't imagine about the future. I would never have imagined that at some point during my stay in Korea I'd be sleeping next to a country boy from New Zealand and a language whiz from France. It all seems so... airily bohemian, so casually weird, somehow, and if this passage demonstrates how amazingly unhip I am and how my life has been a total Volvo til this point, well -- it's time you knew the truth about me anyway.

Staying up til daybreak, sleeping over at friends' houses, drinking massive quantities of light beer, hanging out with people from all over the world -- yeah.

Note: all the above written in a truly bizarre unsleepy state, despite a total of about 8 hours of sleep over two days, 5 or 6 of which were uneasy and unrestful. I'm on the lookout for the crash.

Friday, June 20, 2003

What the post-breakup mantra of "Just keep moving" will get ya on a Friday night:

-excellent homemade Thai food
-army boys and nostalgia
-a discussion on whether men can be raped and the astute, TMI observation: "That's not the only way a man can be violated, you know."
-pondering the racial, political, and cultural ramifications of four "Southeast Asian woman-American GI" couples
-conversation with a drunk 38-year-old Japanese man who looks about 27
-conversation with a 31-year-old Taiwanese woman (who looks 25) about social hierarchy and the status of women in Korea
-discovery of Powderfinger, a band
-sleeping next to (chastely! dang, your minds are dirty) a former sheep shearer (yes, I'm serious), after said former sheep shearer politely offered me floss (yes, I'm serious about that too), which I gladly took (no, the floss is not a symbol for anything else)

No school for 10 days! Whee!

Got a B on my speaking test, which gradewise is fine, but I rated average or below average for my grade level in the various aspects of speaking abilities, which sucks.

Otherwise, did fine -- 55 out of 60 was my lowest score on the battery of tests I took Tuesday and Wednesday.

Am still considering, vaguely, taking next term off.

At the graduation ceremony, a bunch of performances by students. One I liked very much was a traditional dance by three Catholic priests from Kenya. One I thought was hilarious was a short film in which three female students and one male student sat in a row, legs crossed, simply sitting, waiting. Dressed in black and wearing shades, they simply sat for the entire 3 or 4 minutes of the film. About every 20 seconds, the woman on the left end turned her head and asked the woman next to her, "Now?" That woman turned her head to ask the woman next to her, "Now?" And that woman turned her head to ask the man, "Now?" And the man would look at his watch and say, "Not yet." This happened about 6 times. The seventh time, the man finally said, "Now." Whereupon each person uncrossed their legs, set both feet on the ground, and then... crossed their legs the other way.

Brilliant!

Thursday, June 19, 2003

Only a little tipsy, I swear, this time. Just got back from dinner then drinks then mango popsicle (man, they are SO GOOD) with Lewis and Myung-soo, then just Myung-soo.

At 12:20, I had my speaking test with the teacher I had last term, and it sucked big time, because I was tired from a bad night of sleep (lot of those lately) and because the room was boiling hot (my glasses were literally steaming up) and because I really just didn't care. But after an excruciating 10 minutes, the teacher (who gave me excellent practical advice last term about going to law school or not) and I talked about breakups, the nature of men and women, and various other totally un-school-related topics. For 20 minutes. Making the next student wait 10 minutes.

Foregoing the boring-ass specific details of her advice about my breakup (which I mentioned at the very beginning of the test, as a reason (not an excuse! just a reason, you know?) for why I was subsequently going to blow my test), I will just present to you her theory of how women need to behave around men: "Helen, you and I are capable women who have big hearts and a lot of potential, and that's just not going to cut it with the men. You need to hide that around men, because men need to feel like they are in charge, like they are the ones doing the helping.

"Have you read Racine? No? Well, there's a story he wrote about a man who had to accomplish a deed deep in the forest. His woman friend suggested tying thread to a tree at the edge of the forest so he could find his way about. That woman assumed that since she helped him, he'd fall in love with her. But he didn't. And that's the way it is: men don't like women telling them how to solve problems; they want to be the ones helping the women in their lives.

"I have a very smart friend who was married to a guy who admired her for her smarts. She would work really hard at her studies while he read comics, and for a while it worked, because he liked the fact that she could be a professor if she wanted to."

"Well, did that work for her?" I asked.

"No. They" (with a motion instead of words) "split up. You see, he finally asked for a divorce because, as he said, he wanted her to derive strength from him at times. And so they divorced.

"Some women are okay with being the alpha in the relationship -- they don't mind carrying the guy along with them, they don't mind being the mother. But some men look for a mother in a relationship, and some men look for a little sister. It sounds like you need to look for the latter."

"How are you supposed to bear hiding your talents and abilities?" I wondered out loud.

"Well," she said, "it's like being a teacher. As a teacher, you KNOW the students are saying it wrong, you KNOW there's a better way to write something. But a class where only the teacher is speaking the entire time is really uninteresting. The students learn better by doing it themselves, even if they do it incorrectly or imperfectly. That's how men are similar in relationships; if you, as the woman, are perfectly capable and independent-minded, you need to hide it, so that the men can assert themselves and feel that they are contributing, feel that they are helping. That way, they DO grow, and they DO gain self-confidence."

Interesting, ain't it? Or maybe not. She cited John Gray's Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus, and also the movie As Good As it Gets, saying that just as the Jack Nicholson character says to the Helen Hunt character "You make me want to be a better man," women have to let men have the chance to be better men, instead of asserting themselves and making men feel that they are worse men.

I dunno. As most reasonable people do, I scoffed at The Rules, and rightly so. This sounds very Rules-ish. But at the same time, I believe there are kernels of truth in what she said. Prof. Kim is 35 (and looks 27) and says she rejected a bunch of men in her 20s (which I totally believe, because she's really lovely to look at), before she cottoned on to these ideas. Maybe Korean men exhibit more Mars-ish characteristics than Americans. Or maybe these theories are just as applicable in the States. But what kind of men are susceptible to the application of these ideas -- that would be the question.

In any case, it was a new way to look at things. And it's always nice to talk to someone who seems really interested in solving your problem. (This sort of thing cost me $180 per 50 minutes in the States!)

After this whole conversation, I went to work, as usual. You know, at work, the bathrooms are in the back side of the building, so the windows look out upon the mountainside next to which the building was built. During the winter, I would wash my hands and stare out at the bare trees and the occasional dustings of snow. Now the hillside is a mass of wavy green -- treetops swaying in the wind. There's a hypnotic quality to the movement, and a kind of calm that comes upon me when I stand there watching groups of treetops move back and forth in the summer breeze.

After work, I went to Myung-soo to a bookstore, then invited her to come to dinner with Lewis, who works nearby on Thursday nights. We went for, um, grilled intestines, I guess -- a first for all of us. You could tell the intestines apart from the liver (?) and other inner meats by the tube shape. It's not the taste so much as the texture, which is kind of rubbery... anyway, we had a nice time over dinner, and then again over drinks at a nearby cafe. Lewis is such a easygoing New Zealander that Myung-soo instantly felt at ease, and I just liked being with two friends, even if I don't know them all that well. (I find, oddly enough, that I like being with two people rather than just one other, especially when I know both better than they know each other. Is that weird? Or common? Or understandable?)

Lewis is really amazingly good about never speaking English, always speaking Korean, and Myung-soo asked why I don't do the same. We talked a little bit about how it's different for Caucasians/nonAsians and Amerasians in Korea; as you might guess, when I've gone out with Lewis or Ajay by myself, servers talk just to me, not them. When they realize that Lewis or Ajay speaks Korean, they get very complimentary (i.e., "My, you speak Korean so well!"). But at the same time, when they realize that I'm a foreigner, they simply say, "Oh, you're a foreigner, are you?" and rarely, if ever, compliment me on my Korean.

Often I won't answer the server right away, giving my Caucasian friend the chance to speak, just to illustrate that, you know, Whitey can talk the talk too. I mean, it's not a uniquely Korean habit to assume that Slant-eyes is a homie and Whitey isn't; Myung-soo said that in Canada, when she went out with a Korean friend who spoke little English, people would be taken aback when she spoke English, having assumed that both of them couldn't. But that's the way it goes; I look different in America, and some people will always wonder "Where I came from," while in Korea, I look the same, and everyone expects me to be one of them.

Myung-soo lives in the same apartment complex as I do, and so we went home and bought a popsicle for me and a cider for her, and sat on one of the flat platforms that serve as benches on a path between a row of buildings. The night was balmy. Mosquitoes bit us. I was a little (as I mentioned) tipsy (not remotely tipsy now, of course). I told her that I was sad that Lewis was leaving for the summer (he plans to come back in the fall), because he made class really fun, and I always felt happy when I saw him. She said we must be good friends; I replied that no, he works nearby on Thursday nights, and since it's so far from where he lives, he calls up to have dinner or drinks because it's kind of a waste to spend an hour in transit, two hours working, and then another hour in transit. She opined that social people like Lewis always have the door open, but that they only open it part-way, so you can never quite see everything inside, and they open it the same amount for everyone. I thought about it, and offered back: Maybe it's more that the door is very big, but the room inside is rather small.

Rather proud of that metthapor. Metaphor, I mean.

Sorry if any of the above didn't make sense. Tipsified. May have mentioned that earlier. G'nite.

Wednesday, June 18, 2003

Okay, I lied. I'm sitting here, reading an essay about the Korean economy that could have been written by a third grader judging from the sentence structure and presentation of facts, and I'm wondering, "Why? Why don't I just quit this dumb-ass job and be done with it? It's not doing anything for me resume-wise, it's not that interesting, and it takes six freakin' hours out of each weekday and four hours out of every other Saturday. Good lord."

After doing really poorly on the exams today (didn't finish one of the essays), I talked to this Canadian army officer who's in the same level as me in the language school. He's on the UN Armistice Commission, or something like that. Point is, he's been to the DMZ, unarmed (cuz he's part of the UN), surrounded with his South Korean military guard, and he said this about it: "The biggest misconception about the DMZ is its name -- it's not demilitarized at all."

I did a double take and said, "Wait, I always thought the actual DMZ -- not the parts of North and South Korea bordering it -- was just lush vegetation and mines."

He laughed. "Not even close! The UN has 150 stations in there, with 30 guys each. At last count, North Korea has 350 stations in there. We don't know how many men are in each one. Last time I went, I was near the actual demarcation line -- about 200 yards away -- and there was all kinds of stuff going on in there."

I asked him if it was true what Pres. Clinton said about it being the scariest place on earth.

"Oh yeah. Definitely. But," and here he seemed to think he had said too much (is this kind of stuff classified?) and so blatantly tried directing the conversation elsewhere, "not as scary as learning Korean. I mean, I understand North Korea and the military and guns. I have no idea when it comes to learning Korean."

Yeah, right, guy. But thanks for giving me an idea of what the DMZ is like. Fascinating.

On a slightly related note, the 2002 recipient of the Walt Whitman award for poetry was a 34-year-old Korean American woman, for her book of poems called "Notes from the Divided Country."

Tuesday, June 17, 2003

Hey. No new entries for a few days as I try to get my shit together for these finals. I was really good over the weekend, mostly because I went to go study with Mia at the library near her grandmother's apartment in Gwachon, and she got up at 6:30 am to reserve our seats for the day, so I had to honor her efforts and actually study. Yesterday, both on the subway and at home at night, I also studied fairly diligently. But today motivation fled to her home in the hills and will not be coaxed out, even by the promise of samgyupsal (grilled pork wrapped in lettuce, mmmmm) and soju.

Friday, June 13, 2003

Just one more week of this term. Next Tuesday to Thursday I take finals, and then I have a week and a half of no school.
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Funeral
Part 5: Crematorium

After a fitful 4 hours of non-sleep at the bathhouse, DBW, CW and I got back to the hospital, where about a dozen men sleeping, shoes off, on the floor of the eating room. People were packing things up so that we could head over to the crematorium. My other cousin's wife (CW2) tied up a box containing a jade vase with a black ribbon. She asked me to help her gather a bouquet of flowers from the 8-foot-tall flower arrangements, to place on the grave later that day. She picked lilies, I picked roses. My uncle's brother, wearing white gloves, carried the framed picture of my uncle, surrounded by white chrysanthemums.

There was a bus chartered to take people to the crematorium, but I rode in my dad's car. I took both bouquets of flowers with me, wrapped in newspaper.

The crematorium had an oddly collegiate air, with grassy outside areas and a cafeteria in addition to the cool marble interior of the ceremony rooms and waiting areas. We were ushered pretty quickly into the Buddhist room, along with the plain wooden coffin. The next two rooms were ecumenical, and the furthest room from us sported a cross. The mourners inside that room sang hymns; chants and bells rang inside ours.

After the monk was done chanting, the coffin was taken into one of the non-affiliated rooms, where my aunt and the monk and a few other people sat for some time. Perhaps a chance to say goodbye? The rest of the group milled around the common space outside, along with mourners from several other funerals.

CW, DBW, Gyu-hyun and I went to the other side of the building, where there were rows of orange-colored seats next to the glass walls. It felt like the airport. On the other side of the seats, a gently sloping ramp led past small windows set into thick walls of stone. Each window lined up with a set of what looked like steel elevator doors. I realized that the doors each led into a room where the dead would be burned.

We waited. Gyu-hyun and I played a few games of Thumb War, but I was too tired to get much into it, so I chased him away by pretending to pick my nose and eat the pickings.

More waiting.

And waiting.

And then, all at once, three groups of mourners moved up the ramp and took their places before their respective elevator doors. The picture of my uncle was placed on the deep sill of the little window, as was the wooden box containing the jade jar. My aunt, the monk, and my aunt's friends began to chant. Keening filled the air, not so much from our group, but from another set of mourners at another window.

The coffin was rolled into the area on the other side of the little window and the thick stone wall. A crematorium employee wearing white gloves took off the covering to the coffin and stuffed it into one of the ropes encircling it.

The keening continued. I stayed behind the little group in front of the window, feeling like an intruder of sorts on this grief. I saw my older cousin Hee-jye (Gyu-hyun's father) wipe his eyes. He noticed me standing there and told me I should go eat in the cafeteria downstairs, as the cremation would take two hours.

I stood in back of the little group for a little while longer, and eventually wandered outside into the sunlight. CW2 and her son were nearby, and Yong-jye came by to tell all of us to come eat. As we walked to the cafeteria together, Yong-jye said in English, obviously unnerved, "Those doors, they were -- terrible." His wife, with whom I'd picked out the bouquet of flowers for the grave, said, "It was like, what is it? Auschwitz?" I nodded.

After a quick lunch, sitting with Yong-jye, his wife, their son, his wife's father and brother, and my oldest uncle, I went outside and slowly strolled around. I noticed a faint rhythmic whump noise and, looking at the building, noticed metal chimney-like structures rising out of the roof. They corresponded to the location of each set of steel elevator-like doors.

I took out my phone, hoping that someone had called. I walked some more, brooding on various personal melodramas, then went back to the cafeteria and asked my dad for the car keys, thinking I might take a nap. While I was in the car, my phone rang. It was John. We talked for about an hour. It was not a very good conversation. I apologized for it later.

I got off the phone when I saw my dad and Hee-jye in front of the car. Hee-jye was hugging a large white jar to his chest. I wondered if the jar was warm to the touch.

Tomorrow: Interring the ashes

Thursday, June 12, 2003

Daily Double! I just posted the Tuesday entry (which I had started on Tuesday) and am now posting the Thursday one, so don't forget to check out the entry below. Sorry there was no entry yesterday. Lot of work at work, and when I get home I don't want to do much of anything. It's been raining since yesterday afternoon, so I feel kinda glum. (Isn't that a great word?)

Tonight a coworker asked if I was going to come have dinner with the jazz dance class takers, but I declined, and then I found a message from someone from my class asking if I wanted to have dinner because he works near me on Thursday nights, but he finishes work at 7:30 and I was headed home already at 6:30 and didn't feel like waiting, so I declined, and I have no idea why I'm telling you this. To make it seem like I have friends? Hah hah! How easily spin is spun!
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Funeral
Part 4: The Bathhouse

In college, my roommate once started whipping off her shirt in front of me, only to realize that she wasn't wearing anything underneath and that she had just flashed me. She burst out laughing because of my face -- apparently I wore an expression of mingled amazement, horror, and disgust.

So it was an adventure, going to the bathhouse. What? you ask. Bathhouse? I thought we were talking about a funeral. Is Korea even weirder than I thought?

Well, yes, but the bathhouse was a separate deal from the funeral. Around midnight, my cousin's wife (CW), the deceased's brother's wife (DBW), and I were sitting in the reception room by ourselves. My aunt had gone home to sleep. My cousins were off seeing to visitors. My father, as I later discovered, had fallen asleep in a chair in the first floor computer room of the hospital. My Thumb War partner, Gyu-hyun, was fast asleep on the reception room floor. There were still a good 30 visitors around, drinking, talking and playing cards.

DBW said suddenly, "This won't do. Let's go to a bathhouse. C'mon, let's go."

I stammered out, "I've never been."

"Well then, this'll be a good time to start."

CW also hadn't been to one, but we all gamely got into one of the cabs waiting in front of the hospital and told the driver to get us to the nearest bathhouse. He had to ask another cabbie.

We climbed up four floors and entered the bathhouse, where DBW paid for all three of us (I think about 30,000 won, or $25 USD), we received towels and robes, and went to the lockers, passing by a couple of naked women. DBW started disrobing, and after a second of hesitation, I followed DBW's example and pulled off my clothes as well. I mean, there wasn't much else to do, really. CW pulled on her robe and gave me mine, as it was clear both of us were feeling a little awkward, never having been at a bathhouse before. DBW promptly laughed at us, saying, "You know, you put those on after you bathe."

It took surprisingly little time to get used to the nekkid thing. We took showers in a communal shower room that featured a small pool of cold water at the end of the room, and after noting the woman being massaged on the table next to the shower, I thought only of the fact that it felt really, really nice to shower standing up. Aaaaah.

Outside the room, we all put on the pink robes, and DBW suggested, "Well, I guess we should try out the steam room, shouldn't we?" So we trooped into one of the three steam rooms. This one was decorated like a cave (another one looked like a forest). There were a couple women sitting on the towels on the floor already, and we sat behind them. We started sweating.

CW got out first, murmuring, "Too hot!" A few minutes later, DBW left, and I was left sitting on a scorching hot floor, where I discovered that you really can sweat from every pore! I must have sweated out a cup of water. A few times I felt like I couldn't breathe, the air seemed so hot and heavy. But most of the time, it felt more like being baked than steamed.

I stepped out feeling refreshed and cleansed (which I don't really understand, since whenever I sweat outside, I feel sticky and smelly. Why is that?). DBW exclaimed, "Agashi!" upon seeing me (that just means "young girl"), apparently impressed at the sheen of sweat covering me.

Although it was probably 1 am or so, there were plenty of women still up and about, some even playing cards (Korean style) in a different room. There were also a number of women asleep on the floor in the outer room, including one flat on her back, robe half flung over her, snoring up a storm. The fact that they were sleeping on the floor isn't as gross as it seems -- remember that no one wears shoes inside the house in Korea, and the floors are heated by a system of pipes underneath.

After a few minutes of sitting by our lockers, DBW said, "We probably should go into the sleeping room, rather than try to sleep outside. It'll be quieter and we can sleep without the light in our eyes and without people talking." Not knowing exactly what that meant, CW and I agreed, and we entered a dark room with blankets thrown about on the floor and women who had tossed themselves on the blankets. We found three places and lay down.

I slept on and off for the next four hours. There was a young girl there with her mother, and she occasionally called out in her sleep as if she was having a nightmare. Women came in and out of the room. Around 3 am, a pair of women came in and talked to each other in regular voices. And on my part, I kept thinking stuff like, "I am so gonna get some kind of fungus from here. How often do they wash these blankets, anyway? My hair is going to be freaky in the morning. Wait, reality check. I am where, while wearing what, right now?"

At 4 am or so, DBW woke CW (and me, since I heard her) and told her we needed to go soon. CW got up and left the room. Unable to sleep, I followed her out about 20 or 30 minutes later. I took a shower to tame the hair (and enjoy the standing up), and then sat with CW for the next hour, watching an employee set up the clothes counter (yes, they sold clothes, too!) and a woman trying them on. CW wondered why women would want to sleep in a bathhouse. We're both light sleepers and hadn't slept well, so it looked rather unappealing at the moment. But thinking back now, it probably would be fun to hang out with your friends all night in a responsibility-free environment where you could get facials, massages and manicures. There was even a room where you could eat. You know, now that I think of it, it was a full-service joint! (Not to mention a rather neat contrast to the very male environment back at the hospital, which is possibly why DBW suggested going...man, am I swift or what?)

After wondering if DBW was going to wake up on her own, we finally thought we should get going. So at 5:30, CW went to wake DBW up, and we left to go back to the hospital. The third day had begun.

Tuesday, June 10, 2003

Tuesday night I had dinner and a drink with Ajay, an Indian American guy in my class, and I realized that visiting Korea is a different experience for a man. Ajay, who's 29, has a master's degree in engineering, and decided on a bit of a lark to live and work in Korea for two years. He worked for a company here for about a year and a half and quit to take the language program at Sogang.

Over beer and squid, we talked about funny moments in Korea. "I'm glad I came here," he said, "I mean, now I have so many interesting stories to tell. Like the time my coworkers invited me to go to a hostess bar. We got seated in a private room, and then eight women came in and they were like, 'Which one do you want?' So I said, 'Uh, I guess I'll take that one?'

"The thing is, my Korean was pretty limited at that point, and I couldn't really talk to her. I knew how to ask her where she came from, what she majored in in college -- all the things you're not supposed to talk about! The other women were feeding their partners snacks and pouring them drinks and stuff, and here I was asking where she grew up."

[I'll interject at this moment to describe more fully what hostesses do (gleaned from a recent movie I saw). Hostesses sit next to their partners and basically act as their dates. They giggle, pour drinks, smile, give food, and generally stroke egos. I know. Gross. Anyway, back to Ajay's story. -hk]

"Anyway, closing time came, and we were presented with the bill. It was 200,000 won per person! [about $170] I paid 200,000 won to be bored.

"But that wasn't all. When the host or whoever came to give us the bill, he said that if we wanted the night to continue, it would cost another 200,000 won. I didn't understand what he meant, so I asked, 'Wait, what do you mean?' Everyone just kind of looked at me, including him. So he made this pumping action with his hips, and I finally got it. I was like, 'Oooooh! Yeah, no, that's okay.'"

I said that my workplace had a good number of women employees, so that was probably why I'd never seen any of this kind of thing. "Well," he laughed, "it's not like they'd tell YOU about it if they went!" True, but the three or four times I've gone out with the team, the men dispersed when the women did.

"That reminds me," Ajay said, starting to laugh again. "There was a time when a woman in the company did go to one of these hostess bars with the men."

"What?" I asked. "Why?"

He shrugged. "I guess they thought it would be funny, or that she would think it was interesting."

"Did she pick a hostess too?"

"No, I don't think so, I think she just sat there while the men sat with their hostesses."

According to Ajay, there are host bars as well, where women can choose an attractive man to sit with them. "Probably popular with ajummas [older or married women]," he conjectured.

My automatic reaction: Ew.

And then: I hope those girls are getting a LARGE cut of the price.
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Funeral
Part 3: Tedium and Thumb Wars

Sitting on the floor for hours hurts.

I was wearing a black jacket, tights and heels, and a below-knee length skirt, so I couldn't sit cross-legged as my hanbok-clad relatives could. Even if I could, my western joints and butt get to feeling achey and creaky before long. So after a while, it felt better to stand than to sit on the floor.

In the evening, someone from the hospital came to deal with dinner, so my cousins' wives and I sat in the reception room, away from the madding crowd. Occasionally they would have to get up to take care of something.

At one point, Hee-jye, the older of the two sons, asked if I'd take his 8-year-old son, Gyu-hyun, to the convenience store. Trying to be helpful, I agreed, and followed Gyu-hyun to the store, where he settled on a toy cell phone that made real noises when you pressed the keys. I bought it for him.

A little later, as we all sat around doing nothing in the reception room, Gyu-hyun asked me to hold the phone for him. I took it and pretended it was ringing.

"Hello? No, he's not here. Okay, okay. Right." Then I handed the phone over and said, "Spiderman called for you."

At least his dad laughed.

After more sitting around, I decided to teach Gyu-hyun how to play Thumb War. So for the next 30 minutes, we worked on "One, two, three, four/Let's start a thumb war." He actually got it down pretty fast. We played about 20 times. Then he showed his mother. Then he showed his father.

I apologized to his mom.

Trying to think of other things to pass the time, I came up with the tried and true "Gimme a five/ Up high/ Down low/ Too slow!" and even managed to explain it in Korean.

We did that about 30 times. He showed his father. He showed his mother.

I apologized again to his mom.

After that, I taught him one of the "daps" that John showed me when he was working at the Tomb, and for the rest of the evening, it was a combination of Thumb War, Gimme Five's, and daps. Oh, and when Gyu-hyun's 3-year-old cousin came, we also played "Crash the toy cars." It was darn fun.

I had fun playing with kids!

Watch out for flying pigs next.

Tomorrow: the bathhouse (which I know I said I'd cover in this entry, but it's already long and I go into a lot of detail about the bathhouse, 'cause it was an experience to remember)

Monday, June 09, 2003

Today in class we talked about names. Very important deal in Asian cultures, auguring all sorts of fortunes and the like. Often the paternal grandfather will play a role in the naming of the children, but professional name-finders are also consulted, and sometimes monks and other people.

In the olden days, parents would give their kids crazy names like "Kimchee" and "Dogshit" so as to prevent ghosts from coming too close to them. I'm so not kidding.

My own name, as with all Korean names, is derived from Chinese characters. It means a certain kind of flower that grows on rocks; ergo, beautiful exterior, but possessing gritty determination (and maybe perverse sort of perseverance? I mean, why a rock?). My brother's name means a stone tiger (raaarh!).

The rock in my name and the stone in his comes from the same character: "Sok-." The common syllable is sort of optional for siblings, but what is much less optional is the common syllable for male cousins of the same generation. (Getting confused yet?) For easier understanding, here's a chart of my cousins' names. [Shit, blogger doesn't keep the spacing, so I had to work with what I had. I realize that it doesn't look much like a chart now.]

Sok-ran (F) Sok-ho (M) (my dad's kids)
Yoon-gyun (F) Yoon-ho (M) (one uncle's kids)
Jong-eun (F) Jong-ho (M) (another uncle's kids)

See how the "-ho" is repeated across all the boys' names? Now, consider this:

Hee-jye (M) Yong-jye (M) (my aunt's sons)

Why don't the two boys in this family have the "-ho" suffix? Because they belong to my uncle, who just passed away, and who isn't part of the Kim family. Hee-jye and Yong-jye's male cousins from their father's side probably share the "-jye" suffix.

Thus endeth the lesson.
-----------------------
The other day, John's cousin mentioned that his daughter had graduated kindergarten and was a rising first grader. When I left L.A. for Korea, she had just started kindergarten. Man. I've already been here almost an entire school year. One school year used to seem so long.

I swear, time moves faster when you're older.
------------------------
Funeral
Part 2: Kim is an Irish Name

The funeral process takes three days. The day my uncle died, Thursday, was counted as the first day. People joked that it was lucky/kind of him to die late at night (about 10 pm) so that the first day was short, because when you're staying up all night, three days starts looking like a really, really long stretch.

Shortly after my uncle died, his body was washed and prepared for cremation. As I remember from my grandmother's funeral five years ago (in fact, around this time of year as well), besides the monks and hospital staff, only the sons are supposed to handle the body. The older of my two male cousins, Hee-jye, said later that he thought he would be afraid, but that when he actually touched his father's body, he found he wasn't afraid at all.

My uncle died in a hospital in Inchon, a town adjacent to Seoul and known for its ceramics. In a neat display of communications prowess, everyone was notified by the day after he died, and I would say at least one hundred people showed up on Friday, the second day of the proceedings.

I arrived in the mid-morning, having been picked up by my father's older brother (Kun Abohjee, or "big father"), plus wife and son. Kun Abohjee's family is all devoutly Christian (his son is planning to become a pastor and his daughter is married to another pastor-in-training), and now that I think of it, I wonder if they weren't a little uncomfortable with the Buddhist overtones. Perhaps that's why the wife and son left after a few hours? But the funeral process wasn't very religious on the second day, except when the monk came by to chant. Anyhoo. My dad and aunt said I could go, but I opted to stay because I was curious. "I want to see," I said, and then immediately felt like a jerk for treating the death of my uncle like a spectacle.

Everything on the second day took place in the basement of the hospital, where we were in one of two suites on the floor.
The suite contained two rooms -- a reception room and an eating area. The reception room contained my uncle's picture and ritual offerings, including food (which was changed throughout the day), candles, drink, and incense. This is where my aunt and her two sons greeted visitors.

My aunt wore a black hanbok (traditional Korean dress), and a small white ribbon bobby-pinned to her hair. My cousins wore black suits and armbands of yellow and black. Their wives also wore black hanboks. (I nearly didn't recognize one -- she usually wears (what I now realize is) a lot of makeup, and she looked totally different.)

Visitors starting coming to pay respects in the late afternoon. The mostly male visitors took off their shoes and bowed twice to my uncle's picture and then once to my cousins, who bowed back. Then the visitors would head in the larger room right next to the first, where they ate, drank, smoked and played cards all night.

What!? At a funeral?

My older cousin's wife (whose 8-year-old son Gyu-hyun is possibly the only human under the age of 18 that I've enjoyed spending time with) said at one point, "I don't understand it. I don't understand why people have to stay up all night and play cards and drink at a funeral."

I told her that the Irish do a similar thing, and that maybe it's so that the spirit of the deceased can come and have a final hurrah, so to speak. She agreed that was probably the case -- "they say it's good if many people come to a funeral; if there's not many people, it makes the dead person feel bad."

Later, it occurred to me that if I could stay up all night with old friends, drinking, smoking, talking and playing cards while other people served me free food and drink, I wouldn't think it very weird at all.

Understanding the tradition is one thing. Living through it as 1. a female and 2. a non-Korean is another. The food was prepared by a service in hospital and an employee covered the evening shift (until at least 1 am), but before that, my cousins' wives worked hard to set up the tables and see that all the visitors were taken care of. I tried to help, but mostly didn't know what was what. However, a few times my cousin Yong-je asked me to bring out some food to newly arrived visitors, so I did.

At one point, I took out some soup and rice for a couple men who'd arrived, and a man sitting next to them asked me to bring out a bottle of water. Well, there were no bottles of water, so I brought back cups of H2O, at which the man groused, "Why didn't you bring out a bottle of water like I asked?" His companion shushed him as I told him there were no bottles of water.

I suppose that doesn't sound like a big deal, but this took place in roomful of 40-50 men in their 50s or 60s, drinking and smoking. There were only about three or four women, probably relatives of my uncle, seated with them. The only people serving were women. All these men were of a generation and culture that values age and the male gender more than youth and the female gender.

And then there was me! (Teeth-baring ironic grin.)

Servers (always women) in restaurants deal with this all the time ("Bring some fresh lettuce!" "Hey, where's the bean paste?"), and I reminded myself to be even more polite in restaurants than I am. Why didn't I bring a bottle of water? This isn't a fucking restaurant, this is a funeral, and none of the people who are serving you are waitresses, they're fucking relatives of the deceased. Jesus.

My dad, who was getting soused along with everyone else, saw me bringing out the food and asked if I was okay. I said, "Yeah, I just don't understand people." He then introduced me to the man he was sitting with, who was a high school friend, and his friend made this little observation (seemingly apropros of nothing): "You know, the the problem with Koreans who are raised in America is that they just don't match with Koreans when they come back. My friend's daughter was raised in the States. She came back and met with some prospective grooms in matchmaking sessons. But her way of thinking didn't match theirs. She's over 30 now, I believe. But you [meaning me] are pretty, so you won't have a problem finding someone who will be willing to take you."

I snorted. As he talked, I saw this kind of statement coming, so that snort was partly amazement, partly disbelief, and partly derision, and I really, really hope it conveyed all those things. My dad, who was listening with a similar sort of dread (I could feel it!), hastily said, "Ah, well, Helen's not worried about that kind of thing and you know, Helen, you probably don't need to stay here." I replied, "Yeah, I don't think I need to be here either." I retreated to the blessed quiet of the reception room and subsequently mysteriously disappeared whenever new visitors arrived.

I don't mean to make it sound like every Korean man is a complete, um, throwback. I got sent out with food for some newbies, and they took the food off the tray for me and thanked me politely. It was just a shock to actually come face to face with someone who really believed that: 1. having a personality that doesn't match a Korean man's is automatically a bad thing, and 2. that a woman unmarried at 30 is a sad, desperate creature. When in fact -- well, I don't really need to say, do I?

Tomorrow, Day 2 goes on. And on. And on. Highlights: Hanging out with my 8-year-old second cousin (and liking it!); and going to the bathhouse.

Saturday, June 07, 2003

The funeral process was long, and so I'm going to deliver the description in a series of entries -- sort of postcards from the grave, as it were -- rather than haul out a single entry that would be several pages long.

First, though, a few Korea-related items of interest.

On Sunday, KBS showed last year's World Cup game in which Korea defeated Argentina, paving the way to a fourth place showing. That was such a huge deal to Koreans. HUGE! From what I've seen, if there's one thing that Koreans as a nation want more than anything else, it's respect. Koreans are extremely nationalistic, and accompanying that is a sense of insecurity about their place in the world. Justifiable proud of their economic success within 50 years of a devastating war fought on their land, Koreans were humiliated by the 1997 IMF crisis. Hosting the World Cup and then doing that well -- well, you don't have to pop psychoanalyze what that meant to people.

Guus Hiddink, the Dutch soccer coach who took the Korean team to fourth place last year, is on par with the Pope (or would be, if this were a Catholic country). There are currently commercials for a bank (or is it an insurance company?) that feature Guus. One of them takes place on a rainy soccer field. Guus is yelling "Pali, pali!" (quickly, quickly!) to a soccer player, who falls hard in the pouring rain. A moment later, he is pulled up by the bear-like Guus, who wraps his own coat around the player and walks off with him to the sweet strains of Journey: "And now I come to yoouuuu, with ooooopen, arrrrms, Nowhere to hide, believe what I say..." Aww.

Another commercial features Guus preparing a birthday dinner for a soccer player, who opens his front door and is astonished to see Guus in the middle of putting down a birthday cake on the table. The player weeps. Guus hugs. Aww.
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On a frivolous fashion note: Korean women paint their big toes but leave their other toes unpainted. Same with their hands. I asked someone this weekend why, and she said that painting all the toenails would be, well, just not very nice.

Beats me.
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Funeral
Part 1: Flowers and Cash

The flowers are 8 feet tall.

No, not the flowers, themselves, the flower arrangements. Bamboo tripods support a long spine of planters' Styrofoam, which sport fan-like palm leaves as a background to three kinds of white flowers: chrysanthemums, lilies and roses. A large black and white gift bow adorns the top, and two white strips of fabric hang down, with the name of the donor (usually companies or churches) on the left one and the customary "condolences" (in Chinese characters) on the right.

There are 11 total, and they tower above the visitors in the hallway outside our two rooms. My brother asked if I'd buy a large flower arrangement for the funeral on behalf of him and his wife, but upon viewing these arrangements, I agreed with my dad: nothing says love like cash. Everyone who came dropped an envelope into a box built into the reception desk for that purpose. There were even envelopes for you if you didn't have the foresight to bring your own.

I told my cousins and then my aunt that my brother had sent his regards, and then dropped the envelope into the box.

Tomorrow: The basics; more proof that Koreans are the Irish of Asia; and an experience that makes me vow to be more polite to restaurant staff.

Thursday, June 05, 2003

Hey, forget all the stuff about Busan below. My uncle died today (well, I guess technically yesterday, Thursday June 5), so I'm in town this weekend, hopefully being useful in some capacity.

He was the husband of my dad's older sister. He had stomach cancer and everyone, including him, knew he was dying. My aunt has two adult sons, both married and with small children, whom I'm sure will be of comfort to her. She also has her two younger brothers (my dad being one), both of whom live close by and will be staying with her this weekend.

I'm ditching school and work (don't worry, teacher and boss alike know) this weekend to go to Busan, a city in the south. Mia, the Korean Canadian, and Aimee, the Korean American, invited me to come, and at first I declined because I had aforementioned school and work, but then I thought about it and said to myself, dang it, hk, there's more to Korea (and life!) than the classroom and office.

Also, I just need to get out (of town, of the daily grind, of my head) for a while. (How easily did I fall into a routine of school, commute, work, commute, homework, restart? Wherever you go, there you are, my friend. Maybe you should just accept that this is the way you are. Wait, whaddya meeeeaaaan?)

It's the first time for me to go off to a part of Korea with just friends, no dad. I expect it'll be a bit different without Mr. Kim. Whoo? Hm. I like traveling with my dad, actually. He's very easy-going, finds similar things interesting or funny, buys me things, and tries to accommodate my wishes. What's there not to love?

I like Mia and Aimee, but sometimes I get a little nervous around them. I last hung out with them last Friday, when I got drunk and sang 4 Non-Blondes and wrote an excruxiatingly slobbery and self-pitying blog entry. Mia is a self-said verbally emotive person; she told me two weeks ago that she wrote an email to a friend in which she said that she'd met two people, who, if she could have them in her life, would make her happy, and that one of them, Helen, was trying to decide whether to go to law school and was probably brilliant. I think I may have blushed at this. So, like, great and wonderful, yeah? Except that Mia, who just turned 27, is also a bit like a butterfly, socially fearless and charming and kooky and witty, and besides making me feel slow, she scares me.

Aimee graduated last spring, and is a fast-talking California girl with great taste in clothes and confidence by the gallon (liter?), who majored in Ethnic Studies and is going to medical school, and she too scares me, because she speaks Korean really really well and is, like, all savvy about Korean American culture... yadda blah blah. I really need to shut up about my neuroses, 'cause they are BO-RING! Yeah, you, hk.

It's a long weekend (sorry, don't know the reason for the holiday), so we'll set out by bus tomorrow morning (Friday) and return on Sunday by train. So no new blogs until Monday, probably. Here's a handkerchief to dry those tears.

In the meanwhile, I leave you with what people say about the men of various colleges in Seoul. There are a TON of colleges here, and they all have their own personality, of course. So the measurement stick as related below is a college girl who tells her boyfriend that she is cold.

Girl: I'm cold!
Seoul University Boyfriend: Yeah, so am I.
(Seoul University is widely considered the most prestigious college in Korea. Seoul University students have a rep of studying very hard, which apparently translates into lack of social skills/warmth. [Who will testifaaaye with me, now? Yalie brethren, stand alive! Whoops, sorry, the smarm just came spilling outta me...])

Girl: I'm cold!
Korea University Boyfriend: Here, take my jacket.
(Korea University apparently attracts a lot of students from the countryside, and you know how tough and manly those country boys are. [Unless they're John Denver. Oops, shouldn't speak smarmily about the dead -- damnit, hk!] Thus, the giving up of the jacket.)

Girl: I'm cold!
Yonsei University Boyfriend: Come here, I'll warm you up.
(My parents' alma mater is Yonsei and I grew up thinking it was the most prestigious school in Korea, so either I was lied to or things have changed. In any case, these days Yonsei boys are considered on the attractive side, with a dash of playboy added in.)

Girl: I'm cold!
Korean West Point Equivalent School Boyfriend: Then run!
(Aha. Ahahahaha.)

Sorry if the above has not made much sense; had a couple of beers with dinner and afterwards, so feeling drowsy and nonsensical. Also tubby. Hey, did I just write that out loud? D'oh!

Wednesday, June 04, 2003

Right now I am eating "Cheese Crackers," which taste very much like the crackers I ate as a child. You know, the ones where you get four crackers, some processed cheese (cheez?), and a little red stick so you could spread your own cheese! Yes, you had the option of making a cheesy cracker sandwich, or spreading the cheese on each cracker, or making a four-tier cheese extravaganza.

I was never the cracker sandwich type, because if you did it that way, you'd have cheese left over, and you couldn't have that. Instead, I would portion out the cheese so that an equal amount was spread on each cracker, and none left in the little cheese part of the container... yes, even then, I was that anal.

These crackers taste like they're made out of sugar and little flour. Too much sweetness with the cheese! Yarrrgh. There are crackers even more sweet than the ones I'm currently eating, though. Those are like cookie sandwiches with cheese in the middle. Truly gross.

A coworker sent me a joke about ramen the other day. I haven't finished reading it all, but it's hilarious. Here's what I've translated so far:

These days, the frightening influence of the Ramen Religion is spreading. We've found out the following:
Q. What is the Ramen Religion's doctrine?
A. There are many components, but there are three big points. First, faith in the resurrection. When Ramen goes into boiling water, it dies. But 3 minutes later, it miraculously revives. Second, there is the trinity of noodles, soup, and kimchee, which together are one. Third, there is love and pity for the poor and tortured, because for those people, Ramen willingly sacrifices itself.

Ha. Ahahahaha.
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Reading: Sex and the City recaps on the Television Without Pity website. That Samantha! I love her.

Monday, June 02, 2003

I saw Matrix 2 yesterday with Janet, a Korean American girl who said (much later in the day): "I don't want to have children because I think I'm too selfish to think about anyone else first, and I'm also really scared I'll mess up my kids and they'll turn into demon spawn."

So for anyone who has said to me, "You'll feel differently when you have kids of your own" -- "Oh yeah? What if I have demon spawn children? Then what? You expect me to love them then? Yah, didn't think so."

Now, onto the inevitable rant about the Matrix, which you don't want to read if you hate spoilers.

I don't mind that it didn't make sense. But did it also have to be so boring?

Seriously. I like mumbo jumbo philosophical meta-musings as much as any humanities major, and I like the fact that the Wachowski brothers think the American public can handle it. But. Did it the blabbering really need to be delivered in 5-minute long lectures by characters we've never met, who don't have an ounce of personality, and about whom we could care less than, say, George Bush does about the environment?

Although the Architect was pretty bad, the guy whose name I can't remember but who delivered his awful, awful lines in a really fake French accent was horrid. It's not that I didn't understand what he was saying, it's that it had no bearing on the storyline. The chocolate cake-orgasm bit was supposed to be precious, I suppose, but what purpose did it serve except to titillate? Ditto the Monica Belluci character, whose white rubber outfit made her look like the S&N nurse from Pat Califia's Macho Sluts (shout out to RosaG for enduring that seminar with me). The whole thing with the "kees me like you voood kees her" was again, nothing but mere titillation and just plain STOOPID. I like my kissy Keanu scenes as much as anybody, but even I was cringing here -- almost as much as I cringed during the "you're so soft. not like the sand. the sand is rough. not like you" Anakin-Amidala scene in Star Wars 2.

Scores of reviewers have derided the Zion orgy scene, which of course only serves as a backdrop for Neo and Trinity's baum chicka baum baum moment. I have nothing against N and T getting it on; in fact, it's important to establish a believable intimacy between those two characters. Hey, I'm a softie -- it's a tender moment, and I liked the sweetness of it. But I couldn't help wondering why they chose a freakin' DIAS in a HALLWAY for their special moment, which the camerawork emphasizes by tracking backwards through three archways in the last seconds of the scene. I mean, really.

At this point, you may be saying, "So what? I went for the fight scenes and the cool costumes, and there were plenty of both." Okay, let's talk about those fight scenes. The much plugged Neo vs. 100 Smiths scene (the first one, in the playground), for example. Technically brilliant, as before, with some fun little moments here and there, like the agents all piling on top of Neo a la football -- excuse me, American football.

But whereas every fight between Neo and Smith was fraught with tension and dynamism in the first Matrix, this one, despite its pumped-up CGI, was dull. Dull dull dull. When Neo fought in the first Matrix, there was an element of fear, anxiety and excitement in the scene. Real fake blood was spilled. The thuds to the ground seemed to actually hurt the guy. The hatred was palpable. The enemy seemed real, and intensely personal.

In Matrix 2, no blood spills. No bones break. Neo is never hurt, and in fact can throw off 50 Smiths who are piled on top of him. So we ask, "What is the freaking point?" Halfway through the first fight scene in the playground, despite the still-cool 360-tracking and the billowing greatcoat that Neo wears so beautifully, I was ready for it to end. It's so clear that Neo isn't going to demolish the baddies, you wonder why the hell he doesn't just up and outta there and be done with it already.

As for the duplicating Smith himself? I personally think Hugo Weaving is the cat's meow (see Proof, see Priscilla in the Desert). He was wonderful in the original Matrix so I guess the Wachowskis thought that multiplying wonderful by 100 equals something beyond words. Oh, Brothers W! I think it was the Washington Post's Stephen Hunter who summed up the problem the best: 100 Agent Smiths together don't have a tenth of the charisma that one Agent Smith had. Smith is unplugged and on rampage -- what does that say about the nature of the matrix? The nature of programs? If the Brothers W had spent the time they wasted on characters like French-spewing guy on exploring how the hell Smith could be unplugged and even more powerful than before, they would have had an adversary worthy of Neo. Instead, expensive CGI duplication resulted in a watered-down Agent Smith, which no one in the audience wanted.

What do we want, Brothers W? Well, it's too late to tell you, since you're already done filming, but I'll let you know anyway. We want some storytelling. We want characters that we feel for. We do not want jerky, draggy, Philosophy 101 explication, we want you to go back to grade school and relearn the "show, not tell" method of writing. We don't mind being jerked around, contrary to what you may think. No, we want to be led astray, we don't mind red herrings. The "Reloaded" theory explained to Neo was interesting, and the decision he makes spoke to us. So give us more of that. Give us characters we care about, let them evince emotions so that we can care about them. The most effective parts of the movie were Neo and Trinity's scenes together, because we love the ideas of the Matrix, but we need a soft touch sometimes to balance out the hardware. After all, we're only human.