Starting from today, I'm working 10 am to 2 pm, so I've got the afternoons off to explore the city. This afternoon, I'm going with Masaru, the Japanese chef, to the Seoul Aquarium. Whee!

Yesterday, I went to the War Memorial Museum with Maiko. It is HUGE. A large sign over the main entrance reads: "Only strong national security can guarantee peace." From the door, it's a straight shot to a large sculpture which is now being renovated. The fence surrounding it reads: "Freedom is not free."

We rented audiotour phones and walked through the history floor with fairly high interest. We decided to skip the Korean War floor, as Maiko, who is Japanese, had been through it already, and felt uncomfortable the first time. The final floor was devoted to the Korean armed forces (army, navy, marines, air force), and felt suspiciously like propanganda.

I will admit, however, that it was neat to walk through the models of a ship, plane, and land-sea boat/tank thingee.

The museum is heralded as the best museum in Seoul by the Lonely Planet, which publishes just about the only reputable guide to the city. I liked the history section, but after a while, I got kinda bored. Displays of uniforms, guns and bombs start blurring quickly.

I think I'd probably like the Korean War exhibit. Next time.

A couple interesting points: 16 countries sent combat troops to help Korea in the Korean War. About 33,000 American soldiers died. Add to that, say another couple thousand foreign soldiers who also gave their lives for Korea.

Total number of dead in the Korean War: 1.5 million.