I have before me two brochures for tours of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ).They both offer pretty much the same package, at the same price. For 54,000 won (less than US$50), you get to see Freedom Bridge, the only bridge that connects South and North Korea; Dora Observatory, from which you can see North Korea; the 3rd tunnel, through which 30,000 armed soldiers can penetrate within an hour; and Imjingak Park, built in honor of the 10 million South Koreans separated from their families in North Korea.

You also get lunch.

The DMZ, besides being the "scariest place on earth" to Clinton, is so much of a metaphor in itself, it needs no flowery similes or descriptions. It is the area within 2 km south and north from the present cease-fire line set up according to the cease-fire agreement on June 27, 1953. It is 248 km long. It is 4 km wide. For 50 years, it has been devoid of human life. Hence, it is also an incredible ecological treasure.

Grace Travel Co. bills the DMZ as "the most fortified border on Earth that only Korea can offer," which rings with a weird mix of anguish and tourist-pandering. Opening up the brochure, you are exhorted:

"Feel the sorrow of a divided country! To truly understand Korea and her people, visitors must understand the effect of the war and the chasm it left in the hearts of its victim. The only divided country on earth, Korea and symbol of division, DMZ. DMZ is the most heavily fortified border on the planet. It has been 50 years since the Korean War ended in 1953. However, the DMZ has been standing strongly dividing the waist of the Korean Peninsula. For anyone who plans to visit South Korea on business or vacation, this place must not be missed. Visitors can see a picture of Korea's division and its fragile state of peace through looking at the DMZ."

For its description of Dora Observatory, Grace Travel Co. states: "Dora observatory is located at a western front line of the DMZ. From this observation platform, you can get a view of North Korean life including propaganda village and Gaesung city. Aren't you curious about their life?"